JABA- Jakarta Biryani Association

    Prapti's Kolkata Mutton Biryani in Jakarta

    

    Biryani is the single most-ordered Indian dish online, and has been labelled as the most popular dish overall in India. Perhaps its popularity has to do with how easily it can be shared in big gatherings, or the wholesomeness of the dish that provides instant satisfaction and prevents people from asking for anything else. It is a complete meal and there is hardly any need for accompaniments. No wonder a pot of Biryani is almost always welcomed with open arms (mouths). We often order it to eat at home when cooking seems too much of a chore at the end of a long day - when a warm meal is needed to warm the soul, or we serve it at weddings, hoping to please and satisfy the hordes. For impromptu parties, when you do not want to burden your spouse, Biryani is the answer. Covid and e-commerce have given Biryani sales a big boost, all for the better. For me, there is no better bonding with friends than over Biryani.

In the Covid and post-Covid era, three major Biryani home delivery companies gained prominence in Delhi, my hometown. Leading the pack was ‘Biryani Blues’, whose buy one get one offer of Biryani in earthen pots has become famous. Then there is ‘Biryani by Kilo’, which was affordable but lacked outreach. Finally, there is ‘Behrouze Biryani’ with strong social media marketing and is therefore hard to miss.  At home, we tried all the three with inclusive results on which was the best. This led to frequent debates regarding where to order from, each time a Biryani craving gripped the household.

        Layered or Unlayered 

There are essentially two styles of cooking Biryani: Pakki and Kacchi. In the Pakki style, Basmati or other scented rice and meat are cooked separately and then layered, while in the Kacchi style, raw marinated meat (chicken or goat meat) is placed at the bottom of the cooking pot and partially cooked aromatic rice is placed on top of the marinated meat. The pot is sealed and the meat and rice slow-cooked in its own steam through a process called ‘dum’. There is also an intermediate method where partially cooked meat and rice are then layered in a pot and cooked in dum style. Both styles cook the rice and the meat slowly in pots with dough sealing the lid which ensures that all the flavours are sealed in.

The Great Biryani Traditions 

At the risk of hurting regional feelings, I proclaim that there are three great Biryani traditions in India – i) Lucknow or Awadhi Biryani; ii) Hyderabadi Biryani; and iii) Kolkata Biryani (with its addition of potato pieces). In reality the Kolkata Biryani is an offshoot of the Awadhi tradition. The Kacchi Biryani of Dhaka is a continuation of the Kolkata tradition, perfected to a fine art by the Dhaka chefs. It has been helped by the establishment of the custom of only serving Kacchi Biryani at weddings. This has provided great patronage to the Bangladeshi chefs.

Lucknow and Hyderabad have such strong Biryani traditions perhaps due to the historical ties of the two cities with Persia. According to the historian Lizzie Collingham, the modern Biryani developed in the royal kitchens of the Mughal Empire (1526–1857) and is a mix of the Indian spicy rice dishes and the Persian pilaf. Some say that it was the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb who took Biryani to South India and it was adopted and perfected by the Nizams of Hyderabad. Others discount the Mughal theory and state that cooking meat with rice predates the Mughals in India. Whatever may be the provenance, the name is Biryani, which derives from the Biriyan, the Persian word for fried or grilled.

Before I invite opprobrium, I hasten to add that there are other Biryani traditions as well. I particularly like Biryani in Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Crowd sourced information reveals several Biryani traditions. Author  Pranay Lal mentions delicious Amber, Dindigul, Chettinad, Rawther, North Arcot Biryanis traditions of Tamil Nadu. Dindigul Thalapakatti Biryani is getting famous in Tamil Nadu. Then we have Alleppey, Calicut, Thalassery and Sutain Batheri Biryanis from Kerala. Even Bengal has more than just the Kolkata and Dhaka Biryani- there is Bhatkali and Cossimpur Biryani too. Even in Indonesia there is Nasi Biryani, which very frankly does not compete favourably with Nasi Goreng, the flagship and delicious national rice dish of the country.

Brand Biryani

The above, notwithstanding, it is fair to make the point that the three specific cities I mention have been able to brand their Biryani well. They have succeeded in converting Biryani from a dish into a cuisine. Furthermore, people from these cities are very passionate about their Biryani. Even before the social media and mobile phone revolution, we are aware of people, including myself, going to the Paradise restaurant in Hyderabad and getting Biryani packed before catching a train or a plane. Mutton Biryani from Cafe Bahar in Hyderguda and Chicken Biryani from Shah Ghouse in Towlichoki, Hyderabad are renowned.

Just as the name Paradise has got attached to Hyderabadi Biryani, Shiraz and Arsalan as synonymous with Kolkata Biryani, and Idris and Lala of Lucknow Chowk to the Lucknow’s tradition. Kolkattans even squabble about which is the best between Shiraz and Arsalan. Others say that Rahmania and Zeeshan are the original and many lament the decline of Aminia. We are not aware of similar branding of other cities with their Biryanis. 

A question about famous Biryani joints in Lucknow in my business school alumni whatsapp group elicited a variety of passionate and prompt responses. All confirmed that Idris and Lala at Chowk were the most authentic places. For Lalle or Lala Biryani, the advice is to be there by 5:30 p.m., as he has only 2 handis. Many cautioned that the wait at Idris can be at least an hour. Mubeen at Chowk, though more well known for its Nihari Kulcha also serves good Biryani. Zeeshan, next to Tulsi, and close to Lucknow DM’s house, also serves decent Biryani. Then there is Wahid at Aminabad. Dastarkhwan’s Biryani is also very good and they have an outlet at the airport as well. In addition there are many other nameless Biryani vendors at Chowk and in the neighbouring Nakkhass locality who dish  out authentic Awadhi Biryani.

What is Biryani? 

Before moving forward, let me also put another debate to rest. When I speak of Biryani I mean meat (either mutton/goat meat or chicken) cooked with rice exclusively. Rice cooked with vegetables is not Biryani but pulao or tahri. These days however, Kathal (jackfruit) Biryani is getting popular, as the texture of unripe jackfruit mimics meat. Some Biryani die-hards claim Biryani is only made with goat meat and there is no such thing as chicken Biryani. I stand for both mutton and chicken Biryani. Biryani puritans also claim that rice and meat cooked separately and then put together is not Biryani, and that only Kacchi Biryani is Biryani but I am not such a Biryani fundamentalist. Although, they may have a point, cooking meat and rice together and giving the ‘dum’ is quite an art which only a few can perfect, the Pakki style should also pass muster. To me, the only unacceptable Biryani is what some call vegetable Biryani. Once of course I tried egg Biryani to please my eggetarian wife using a combination of boiled, omelette and scrambled egg. The appreciation received was not commensurate with the effort made. I have not dared to repeat it.

Now, the distinguishing features of the three great Biryani traditions. A survey of literature doesn’t produce much difference between the three traditions because all use spices, condiments, aromatic rice and marinated meat in varied combinations. In the sub-continent there are many varieties of aromatic rice. Apart from Basmati, Gobindobhog is used in Bengal, Chitti Mutyalu in Andhra/Telangana and Kaima in Kerala. Sona Masuri is also widely used in South India. In Bangladesh Chinigura and Kalajeera varieties are used in Biryani.

The Hyderabadi Biryani is the spiciest of the three and is mostly made with chicken or goat meat and cooked mostly in the Kacchi style. It is almost always served with ‘Mirchi ka Salan’ (a gravy made of groundnut, sesame seeds, coconut and green chillies). We can also detect the ubiquitous karri patta in the Biryani. The Lucknow or Awadhi Biryani is made with goat meat in the dum style, which is a mix of the Pakki and Kacchi style. Here the marinated meat and rice are partially cooked separately and then layered in a pot and then cooked in the dum pukht way over a slow flame. Rose water, saffron and kewra are used for the aroma but there are no eggs or potatoes. It is usually served with a spicy curry called ‘tari’ and ‘raita’.

The Kolkata Biryani traces its roots to the cooks (khansamas) of the exiled Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah. After the British took over Awadh in 1857, Shah was exiled to the then Calcutta and was permitted to take his retinue of servants and cooks. They settled in the area which is known as Metiabruz. There they made Awadhi Biryani and fed the exiled Nawab. But the pension the British paid him was not sufficient royal so not enough meat could be added to the rice. So the Nawab’s cooks innovated and began to add potatoes and eggs to the Biryani. So in addition to rice and meat, the now new tradition of Biryani emerging from Kolkata had eggs and potatoes. As Bengalis love to eat eggs and potatoes, they welcome the innovation with gusto and they have attached pride to what actually was a poor man’s Awadhi Biryani. Kolkata Biryani is a meal in itself and I have not seen being served with any accompaniments. The Oudh 1590 chain of restaurants in Kolkata, run by my friend Shiladitya Chowdhury, celebrates this Awadhi connection. 

Craving for Biryani At Jakarta 

Now going back to the domestic squabble in Delhi regarding which Biryani to order? My daughters and wife have always preferred the super spicy Chicken 65 Hyderabadi Biryani and its supposedly vegetarian variant the Paneer 65 Hyderabadi Biryani. I never had the stomach for the super spicy Hyderabadi, so I always preferred the milder and fragrant Kolkata variety from ‘Biryani by Kilo’. What I like about the Kolkata Biryani is not just absence of the heat of chillies but at the same time the presence of flavours from Jaiphal (nutmeg) and Javithri (mace)- see the Indonesia connection.

After being in Indonesia for a few months, one day in December 2023, I was suddenly seized by a strong craving for the Kolkata Biryani. It was a very specific craving - only Kolkata Biryani. I could sense the aroma of nutmeg and mace wafting through my nose, and turning me dizzy, without the physical presence of the Biryani. The best word to describe this feeling is the Urdu word – ‘talab’. It was irresistible, yet unavailable, as far as I knew, in Jakarta.

I can cook Biryani but more the Hyderabadi type and that too by layering the rice and the meat but I had never tried the Kolkata Biryani. Taruna, my wife, makes decent Biryani, but she was away in India. Loneliness and craving for food is a dangerous combination. 

Finally, as the craving did not dissipate but aggravated, I decided to make it. So, I posted an innocent query in the Jakarta Bengali Association (JABA) Whatsapp, asking if anyone had an easy Kolkata Biryani recipe.

Arindam was the first to see my message. He has been here long enough to know who the best Biryani cooks are. He immediately contacted Joyita and Prapti. To their credit both promptly got in touch with me saying that they run home food delivery services and they do make Kolkata Biryani. Relief! As I was contemplating whom to order from, Kaushik immediately in his very friendly style zapped in a recipe which he has perfected through the process of trial and error. Before I finished reading Kaushik’s recipe, Srilekha sent me her easy to cook chicken Biryani recipe. From zero biryani prospects to four within minutes! I was overwhelmed.

As there was the home delivery option available, I thought to keep Kaushik and Srilekha's recipe for later and ordered from Prapti. She not only sent large amounts of Kolkata Biryani but also macher (fish) chop (cutlet) and mochar (banana flower) chop (cutlet). I am yet to figure out why Bengalis call cutlets- chop? Prapti’s Biryani lasted for some days as I was cautious enough to deep freeze the surplus. It lasted enough to satisfy my talab.

     Bonding Over Biryani   

   The response of the community filled not only my stomach but also my heart. I write this piece as a tribute to community feeling and camaraderie in Jakarta. For the Kolkata Biryani buffs, I share here the two recipes that I got through the JABA group. In Jawa, we may now as well have yet another JABA - Jakarta Biryani Association - to bring together all the great Indian Biryani traditions. Jakarta Biryani Ki Jai Ho.

  

Kolkata Chicken Biryani by Srilekha Biswas

Take 50 ml milk, soak a few strands of saffron in it, cover and keep it aside. In the pressure cooker, put 1 tablespoon ghee and fry the onion slices (for making birista)… make it golden brown and set it aside. In the same ghee, ( you can add more ghee if you need) let very little birista to be there, add whole garam masala (green cardamom, cloves cinnamon stick), add chopped ginger and garlic, fry it for 2-3 minutes and add Chicken Biryani masala ( 1-2 teaspoon), half teaspoon coriander powder, salt and cook for 2 mins (add very little water if required so that the masala doesn’t burn), then add chicken with bone, big cut potatoes and salt and cook in high heat for 5-7 mins, add half teaspoon crushed garam masala, very little bit of water (because the chicken will release water) … pressure cook for 4 whistles on high heat, let it release on its own ( before closing the lid, please check the taste of salt in the water, if you feel it is less, add more because the rice will absorb salt). Soak the basmati rice in water after washing (only for 15 minutes). Tip: soak it after the last whistle. Let the pressure cooker release steam on its own, put it on high heat, stir it for 5 minutes, so that not much gravy is in there. Next add the basmati rice in it, add 1 tablespoon ghee, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon saffron milk, 1 tablespoon rose water, 1 tablespoon kewra water, garam masala half teaspoon, add water (measurement: for rice 1 cup, add water 1.5 cup) …..pressure cook on high heat (2 whistles ), and then let the pressure release on its own. When the pressure releases, open and add the birista, and then you have the easiest and the yummiest food of Kolkata. Pro tip: garam masala tastes better if green cardamom, cinnamon and cloves are blended together : ratio is 2:2:1, store bought garama masalas aren’t tasty)

Kolkata Mutton Biryani by Kaushik Ghosh

Marinate 1 kg of mutton (goat meat) with yoghurt, ginger garlic paste for 1 hour. Fry 500 grams of finely chopped onions till light brown. Set aside half as birista. Cook the mutton in the onions along with gota gorom masala (sabut garam masala), javithri (mace), jaiphal (nutmeg), shahi jeera and a bit of Biryani masala. Separately fry potato with turmeric and add to mutton when it is 75% cooked . Make rice with gota gorom masala, ghee and cook till 70%. Now is the layering:  meat, rice, birista, ghee, Biryani masala.  Top up with some saffron milk and a generous amount of kewra water. Put it on dum for 15-20 mins. Let it rest after that for 20 mins. And voila! It’s ready to be eaten.

 #Biryani    #Jakarta    #KolkataBiryani 

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