There
are essentially two styles of cooking Biryani: Pakki and Kacchi. In the
Pakki style, Basmati or other scented rice and meat are cooked separately and
then layered, while in the Kacchi
style, raw marinated meat (chicken or goat meat) is placed at the bottom of the
cooking pot and partially cooked aromatic rice is placed on top of the
marinated meat. The pot is sealed and the meat and rice slow-cooked in its own
steam through a process called ‘dum’. There is also an intermediate method
where partially cooked meat and rice are then layered in a pot and cooked in dum style. Both styles cook the rice and
the meat slowly in pots with dough sealing the lid which ensures that all the
flavours are sealed in.
In the Covid and post-Covid era, three major Biryani
home delivery companies gained prominence in Delhi, my hometown. Leading the
pack was ‘Biryani Blues’, whose buy one get one offer of Biryani in earthen
pots has become famous. Then there is ‘Biryani by Kilo’, which was affordable
but lacked outreach. Finally, there is ‘Behrouze Biryani’ with strong social
media marketing and is therefore hard to miss.
At home, we tried all the three with inclusive results on which was the
best. This led to frequent debates regarding where to order from, each time a
Biryani craving gripped the household.
At the risk of hurting regional feelings, I proclaim
that there are three great Biryani traditions in India – i) Lucknow or Awadhi
Biryani; ii) Hyderabadi Biryani; and iii) Kolkata Biryani (with its addition of
potato pieces). In reality the Kolkata Biryani is an offshoot of the Awadhi
tradition. The Kacchi Biryani of
Dhaka is a continuation of the Kolkata tradition, perfected to a fine art by
the Dhaka chefs. It has been helped by the establishment of the custom of only
serving Kacchi Biryani at weddings.
This has provided great patronage to the Bangladeshi chefs.
Lucknow and Hyderabad have such strong Biryani
traditions perhaps due to the historical ties of the two cities with Persia. According to the
historian Lizzie Collingham, the modern Biryani developed in the royal kitchens
of the Mughal Empire (1526–1857) and is a mix of the Indian spicy rice dishes
and the Persian pilaf. Some
say that it was the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb who took Biryani to South India
and it was adopted and perfected by the Nizams of Hyderabad. Others discount
the Mughal theory and state that cooking meat with rice predates the Mughals in
India. Whatever may be the provenance, the name is Biryani, which derives from
the Biriyan, the Persian word for
fried or grilled.
Before I invite opprobrium, I hasten to add that there are other Biryani traditions as well. I particularly like Biryani in Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. Crowd sourced information reveals several Biryani traditions. Writer Pranay Lal mentions delicious Amber, Dindigul, Chettinad, Rawther, North Arcot Biryanis traditions of Tamil Nadu. Thalapakatti Biryani is getting famous in Tamil Nadu. Then we have Alleppey, Calicut, Thalassery and Sutain Batheri Biryanis from Kerala. Even Bengal has more than just the Kolkata and Dhaka Biryani- there is Bhatkali and Cossimpur Biryani too. Even in Indonesia there is Nasi Biryani, which very frankly does not compete favourably with Nasi Goreng.
The above, notwithstanding, it is fair to make the
point that the three specific cities I mention have been able to brand their
Biryani well. They have succeeded in converting Biryani from a dish into a
cuisine. Furthermore, people from these cities are very passionate about their
Biryani. Even before the social media and mobile phone revolution, we are aware
of people, including myself, going to the Paradise restaurant in Hyderabad and
getting Biryani packed before catching a train or a plane. Mutton Biryani from
Cafe Bahar in Hyderguda and Chicken Biryani from Shah Ghouse in Towlichoki,
Hyderabad are renowned.
Just as the name Paradise has got attached to
Hyderabadi Biryani, Shiraz and Arsalan as synonymous with Kolkata Biryani, and
Idris and Lala of Lucknow Chowk to the Lucknow’s tradition. Kolkattans even
squabble about which is the best between Shiraz and Arsalan. We are not aware
of similar branding of other cities with their Biryanis.
A question about famous Biryani joints in Lucknow in
my business school alumni whatsapp group elicited a variety of passionate and
prompt responses. All confirmed that Idris and Lala at Chowk were the most
authentic places. For Lalle or Lala Biryani, the advice is to be there by 5:30
p.m., as he has only 2 handis. Many cautioned that the wait at Idris can be at
least an hour. Mubeen at Chowk, though more well known for its Nihari Kulcha
also serves good Biryani. Zeeshan, next to Tulsi, and close to Lucknow DM’s
house, also serves decent Biryani. Then there is Wahid at Aminabad.
Dastarkhwan’s Biryani is also very good and they have an outlet at the airport
as well. In addition there are many other nameless Biryani vendors at Chowk and
in the neighbouring Nakkhass locality who dish
authentic Awadhi Biryani.
Before moving forward, let me also put another debate
to rest. When I speak of Biryani I mean meat (either mutton/goat meat or
chicken) cooked with rice exclusively. Rice cooked with vegetables is not
Biryani but pulao or tahri. These days however, Kathal (jackfruit) Biryani is getting
popular, as the texture of unripe jackfruit mimics meat. Some Biryani die-hards
claim Biryani is only made with goat meat and there is no such thing as chicken
Biryani. I stand for both mutton and chicken Biryani. Biryani puritans also
claim that rice and meat cooked separately and then put together is not
Biryani, and that only Kacchi Biryani
is Biryani but I am not such a Biryani fundamentalist. Although, they may have
a point, cooking meat and rice together and giving the ‘dum’ is quite an art which only a few can perfect, the Pakki style should also pass muster. To
me, the only unacceptable Biryani is what some call vegetable Biryani. Once of
course I tried egg Biryani to please my eggetarian wife using a combination of
boiled, omelette and scrambled egg. The appreciation received was not
commensurate with the effort made. I have not dared to repeat it.
Now, the distinguishing features of the three great
Biryani traditions. A survey of literature doesn’t produce much difference
between the three traditions because all use spices, condiments, aromatic rice
and marinated meat in varied combinations. In the sub-continent there are many
varieties of aromatic rice. Apart from Basmati, Gobindobhog is used in Bengal, Chitti
Mutyalu in Andhra/Telangana and Kaima
in Kerala. Sona Masuri is also widely
used in South India. In Bangladesh Chinigura
and Kalajeera varieties are used in
Biryani.
The Hyderabadi Biryani is the spiciest of the three
and is mostly made with chicken or goat meat and cooked mostly in the Kacchi style. It is almost always served
with ‘Mirchi ka Salan’ (a gravy made
of groundnut, sesame seeds, coconut and green chillies). We can also detect the
ubiquitous karri patta in the
Biryani. The Lucknow or Awadhi Biryani is made with goat meat in the dum style, which is a mix of the Pakki and Kacchi style. Here the marinated meat and rice are partially cooked
separately and then layered in a pot and then cooked in the dum pukht way over a slow flame. Rose
water, saffron and kewra are used for the aroma but there are no eggs or
potatoes. It is usually served with a spicy curry called ‘tari’ and ‘raita’.
The Kolkata Biryani traces its roots to the cooks (khansamas) of the exiled Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah. After the British took over Awadh in 1857, Shah was exiled to the then Calcutta and was permitted to take his retinue of servants and cooks. They settled in the area which is known as Metiabruz. There they made Awadhi Biryani and fed the exiled Nawab. But the pension the British paid him was not sufficient royal so not enough meat could be added to the rice. So the Nawab’s cooks innovated and began to add potatoes and eggs to the Biryani. So in addition to rice and meat, the now new tradition of Biryani emerging from Kolkata had eggs and potatoes. As Bengalis love to eat eggs and potatoes, they welcome the innovation with gusto and they have attached pride to what actually was a poor man’s Awadhi Biryani. Kolkata Biryani is a meal in itself and I have not seen being served with any accompaniments. The Oudh 1590 chain of restaurants in Kolkata, run by my friend Shiladitya Chowdhury, celebrates this Awadhi connection.
Now going back to the domestic squabble regarding
which Biryani to order? My daughters and wife have always preferred the super
spicy Chicken 65 Hyderabadi Biryani and its supposedly vegetarian variant the
Paneer 65 Hyderabadi Biryani. I never had the stomach for the super spicy
Hyderabadi, so I always preferred the milder and fragrant Kolkata variety from
‘Biryani by Kilo’. What I like about the Kolkata Biryani is not just absence of
the heat of chillies but at the same time the presence of flavours from Jaiphal
(nutmeg) and Javithri (mace)- see the Indonesia connection.
After being in Indonesia for a few months, one day in
December 2023, I was suddenly seized by a strong craving for the Kolkata
Biryani. It was a very specific craving - only Kolkata Biryani. I could sense
the aroma of nutmeg and mace wafting through my nose, and turning me dizzy,
without the physical presence of the Biryani. The best word to describe this feeling
is the Urdu word – ‘talab’. It was
irresistible, yet unavailable, as far as I knew, in Jakarta.
I can cook Biryani but more the Hyderabadi type and
that too by layering the rice and the meat but I had never tried the Kolkata
Biryani. Taruna, my wife, makes decent Biryani, but she was away in India.
Loneliness and craving for food is a dangerous combination.
Finally, as the craving did not dissipate but
aggravated, I decided to make it. So, I posted an innocent query in the Jakarta Bengali Association (JABA) Whatsapp, asking if anyone had an easy Kolkata
Biryani recipe.
Arindam was the first to see my message. He has been
here long enough to know who the best Biryani cooks are. He immediately
contacted Joyita and Prapti. To their credit both promptly got in touch with me
saying that they run home food delivery services and they do make Kolkata
Biryani. Relief! As I was contemplating whom to order from, Kaushik immediately
in his very friendly style zapped in
a recipe which he has perfected through the process of trial and error. Before
I finished reading Kaushik’s recipe, Srilekha sent me her easy to cook chicken
Biryani recipe. From zero biryani prospects to four within minutes! I was
overwhelmed.
As there was the home delivery option available, I thought
to keep Kaushik and Srilekha's recipe for later and ordered from Prapti. She
not only sent large amounts of Kolkata Biryani but also macher (fish) chop (cutlet) and mochar
(banana flower) chop (cutlet). I am yet to figure out why Bengalis call cutlets-
chop? Prapti’s Biryani lasted for some days as I was cautious enough to deep
freeze the surplus. It lasted enough to satisfy my talab.
The response of the community filled
not only my stomach but also my heart. I write this piece as a tribute to community
feeling and camaraderie in Jakarta. For the Kolkata Biryani buffs, I share here
the two recipes that I got through the JABA group. In Jawa, we may now as well
have yet another JABA - Jakarta Biryani Association - to bring together all the
great Indian Biryani traditions. Jakarta Biryani Ki Jai Ho.
|
Kolkata Chicken Biryani by Srilekha Biswas |
|
Take 50 ml milk, soak
a few strands of saffron in it, cover and keep it aside. In the pressure
cooker, put 1 tablespoon ghee and fry the onion slices (for making birista)…
make it golden brown and set it aside. In the same ghee, ( you can add more
ghee if you need) let very little birista to be there, add whole garam masala
(green cardamom, cloves cinnamon stick), add chopped ginger and garlic, fry
it for 2-3 minutes and add Chicken Biryani masala ( 1-2 teaspoon), half
teaspoon coriander powder, salt and cook for 2 mins (add very little water if
required so that the masala doesn’t burn), then add chicken with bone, big
cut potatoes and salt and cook in high heat for 5-7 mins, add half teaspoon
crushed garam masala, very little bit of water (because the chicken will
release water) … pressure cook for 4 whistles on high heat, let it release on
its own ( before closing the lid, please check the taste of salt in the
water, if you feel it is less, add more because the rice will absorb salt).
Soak the basmati rice in water after washing (only for 15 minutes). Tip: soak
it after the last whistle. Let the pressure cooker release steam on its own,
put it on high heat, stir it for 5 minutes, so that not much gravy is in
there. Next add the basmati rice in it, add 1 tablespoon ghee, 1 teaspoon
salt, 1 tablespoon saffron milk, 1 tablespoon rose water, 1 tablespoon kewra
water, garam masala half teaspoon, add water (measurement: for rice 1 cup,
add water 1.5 cup) …..pressure cook on high heat (2 whistles ), and then let
the pressure release on its own. When the pressure releases, open and add the
birista, and then you have the easiest and the yummiest food of Kolkata. Pro
tip: garam masala tastes better if green cardamom, cinnamon and cloves are
blended together : ratio is 2:2:1, store bought garama masalas aren’t tasty) |
|
Kolkata Mutton Biryani by Kaushik Ghosh |
|
Marinate 1 kg of
mutton (goat meat) with yoghurt, ginger garlic paste for 1 hour. Fry 500
grams of finely chopped onions till light brown. Set aside half as birista.
Cook the mutton in the onions along with gota gorom masala (sabut garam
masala), javithri (mace), jaiphal (nutmeg), shahi jeera and a bit of Biryani
masala. Separately fry potato with turmeric and add to mutton when it is 75%
cooked . Make rice with gota gorom masala, ghee and cook till 70%. Now is the
layering: meat, rice, birista, ghee,
Biryani masala. Top up with some
saffron milk and a generous amount of kewra water. Put it on dum for 15-20 mins. Let it rest after
that for 20 mins. And voila! It’s ready to be eaten. |
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