In today’s world it is almost unthinkable that a busy international airport shuts down completely for an entire day. It is not a one-time exception, it happens year after year. Not only is the Ngurah Rai Bali international airport closed to all flights, but all transportation on the island comes to a grinding halt. People remain indoors and at night no lights can be lit. A pervasive silence envelopes the otherwise bustling island. By now, the reader probably is wondering why. No, it is not a time of mourning. It is a festival. It is the Balinese New Year, Nyepi, the day of contemplative silence.
This year Nyepi is being observed from the morning of 19 March to the morning of 20 March as per the Hindu Saka calendar. It is a profoundly spiritual and cultural celebration, unique to the island of Bali. On Nyepi, people are expected to reflect on the past year in silence and start the New Year with positive intentions. Nyepi is very strictly observed and local community security personnel known as Pecalang are deployed for enforcement of rules. In the past, even internet and mobile services are known to have been restricted. Tourist are expected to remain within their hotels, outside movement is restricted.
A majority of the Balinese are Hindu. In fact, Indonesia is the only country in the world where Hindus of non Indian sub-continental origin are to be found. While there is a great deal of commonality in the religious beliefs between the Balinese and Hindus of the Indian sub-continent, differences abound, and manifest distinctly in observation of festivals. Whereas in India the major Hindu festivals are Holi, Diwali, Durga Puja, Ganesh Chaturthi, or Makar Sankaranti, in Bali these festivals do not resonate. Instead, Balinese have their own festivals, Nyepi being the most prominent.
Nyepi is celebrated in three stages. The first, Melasti, is held a few days before Nyepi. It is a purification ritual meant to cleanse both, the inner and exterior universe, of bad karma and sins. There are colourful processions to beaches or sacred water sources to collect the water of life which is used to cleanse sacred objects such as deities. The second ceremony is Bhuta Yajna and the Ogoh-ogoh parade, a day before Nyepi. Ogoh-ogoh is derived from the Balinese word ogah-ogah, meaning something that is shaken. In the parade large, demonic effigies made of cloth and bamboo is constantly shaken, symbolising the driving out of negative energy. They are later burnt in the village cemetery. It is intended to create a balance among the Supreme, Mankind, and Nature and to appease Batara Kala, the God of the Underworld and Destruction.
The third, the most evocative and significant ceremony is Nyepi, a day reserved for self-reflection. Nyepi derives from the Balinese ‘Sepi’, which signifies being quiet or still. Anything that might interfere with the singular purpose is strictly prohibited. The islanders spend the whole day praying, fasting and in meditation to strengthen their relationship with the divine whom they call Hyang Widi Wasa. Nyepi is based on Catur Brata or four precepts. The first, Amati Geni prohibits fire and light, including electricity. Even cooking is shunned. The second, Amati Karya bars all physical activity except those dedicated to spiritual cleansing and renewal. The third, Amati Lelunganan prohibits any movement or travelling. The fourth, Amati Lelanguan requires fasting and allows no merrymaking. The Balinese believe that silence in all forms heals and cleans and prepares them for life.
The day after Nyepi, known as Ngembak Geni, is a complete contrast of the previous day. Families and friends gather and socialise, perform religious rituals together and become active within the community.
On Nyepi today, I contemplate what it would be like if we celebrated New Year the Balinese way, far removed from the mindless revelry that has come to characterise 31st December every year.
#Nyepi #Ogoh-Ogoh
